Leaving Havana shows a different side of Cuba almost immediately. In Matanzas, people avoid the camera, locals say a simple hot dog and drink can cost days of salary, and the roads between towns are ...

MARIEL, Cuba — Rosa López, a 59-year-old housewife, lit a charcoal stove to boil sweet potatoes and prepare scrambled eggs for her grandchildren. The gas cylinders she normally uses to cook her meals ...