Surfing has given me many unforgettable years of fun, health and recreation. After teaching beginning surfers for more than 20 years, I’ve seen the long list of obstacles that they have to overcome in ...
You gotta start somewhere, so the saying goes. Even Kelly Slater, the reigning GOAT of professional surfing, didn’t come hurtling out of the womb and straight onto the podium. And unfortunately, ...
Surfing has an undeniable allure. The ancient Polynesian practice combines both power and grace and forges an intimate connection between a surfer and the ocean. The pros, like John John Florence and ...
I won’t sugarcoat it: most surfers don’t want you to pick up their sport. Surfers can be territorial, aggressive jerks—especially to newbies. Though I’m not excusing that behavior, the instinct is ...
“This one. This one. Start paddling!” shouted Jamie O’Brien as a set wave came through on Oahu’s South Shore. O’Brien is more famous on the island’s North Shore, as one of the greatest Pipeline ...
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